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Thursday, September 27, 2012

Renfrew

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I bought this pattern on impulse last weekend and boy, am I glad I did. Mostly because it really helped draw me out of this funk I've been in, sewing-wise.

I'm not sure if I've ever emphasized this point, but I am not a fast sewist. (Likely exaggerated by the fact that I'm not a patient one, either.) But sewing with knits is a big revelation. This top probably took me about... 6 hours? That includes all the prep work, cutting, fitting, and altering. I feel like, by some people's standards that might be a long time, but for me it's pretty damn fast.

(By the way... "prep work" included a step that I'm not sure was necessary. This fabric is an interlock knit that came in a tube, rather than a flat piece with selvages. When I pulled it out of the bag I realized I had no idea how to work with it. Some impatient googling led me to believe that I had to take the time to cut the whole 2+ meters down a single channel to establish grain... and guys, this is a TINY knit. Is that seriously the only way to establish grain on a tubular knit? Did the internet lead me astray? Anyway, it worked great but took forever.)

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So here's the lowdown:

the fabric is a nice, substantial 50/50 poly/cotton blend interlock knit. You guys know I'm not really interested in using poly, but the choices for non-poly knits at my nearest fabric store were pretty slim. In any case, the fabric actually feels seriously awesome and was a pleasure to work with. That being said, I think the result looks a little more casual than I would like, due to the lack of drape in the fabric... a bit sweatshirt-y, if you will?

When looking at the pattern, my high bust puts me at a 10, my full bust puts me at a 12 and my hips put me at an 8. So I decided to follow the Lladybird method and just grade the pattern. I did a 10 for the shoulders/arms, 12 for the bust, 10 at the waist and 8 at the hips. Easy peasy.

This ultimately proved totally uneccessary. The whole thing came out too big, for one. For two, it must be years of squeezing my boobs into RTW tops, but I actually prefer a super tight fit on the bust in knits, so I think I would have been better just to leave the grading and cut a true size. (well, grading down the hips was probably wise.) The construction of the pattern is awesome, though, in that you sew up the arms and side seams in one step, so it's super easy to take it. I ended up just taking in 1/2" on each arm seam and at the bust, tapering out to nothing at the waist.

I think the fit is now totally wearable, although I still find the shoulders to be too wide and the whole thing still feels a tad loose. Additionally, the bands at the arms and hips (which, yes, I did remember to adjust accordingly) are not tight enough at all. I would prefer if bands of this nature were actually tight against my body with negative ease. Finally, I find the sleeve length isn't quite right for me... I think it needs another inch or so in length, or to be shortened to just above the elbow.

(Just a word about those fit comments... part of why I maintain this blog is to keep notes to refer to in the future. I'm not trying to dwell on the imperfections. And in truth I pick the photos that show the garment to its best advantage when possible, so the things I discuss might not always be visible. You'll just have to trust me :D).

Overall, I think this is the BEST pattern and I can't wait to make more of these. But, I think my preference would be to throw the whole "stable knits" thing out the window and start playing around with jersey, because ultimately I think this garment would suit me with a lot more drape to it. (Viscose knits, I'm looking at you.)

Be prepared for a whole host of thoughts on the idea of sewing cake... I'm sold.

17 comments:

  1. this is gorgeous! i love the deep color and think it looks more luxe-sweatery than sweatshirty. beautiful!

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    1. I'm glad to hear you say so! I'm wearing it today and I think maybe that feeling of sweatshirt-y-ness has to do with the bands not being tight (and thus looking a little puffy)? Because otherwise I think I am now convinced that it looks nice (I'm wearing it with dress pants, even!)

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  2. Love this color! It looks beautiful on you!

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    1. Thank you! I hope these photos aren't too dark - they looked fine on my monitor at home but the shirt looks nearly black on my iPhone screen!

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  3. Great colour! I usually wear my RTW tops tight but I do like the relaxed fit of the Renfrew. It's lovely balanced with skinny jeans or a fitted skirt.

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    1. I've been wearing it for half a day now and I'm mostly happy with the fit. I don't mind a relaxed fit in a shirt (I actually like things that sit away from my waist) but it's the fact that it feels too broad in the shoulders, like the arms are sliding off my shoulders, that is a bit annoying. But I've been known to obsess over very minor issues, lol. I think if I just took the shoulders down a size it would be just about perfect.

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  4. Hmm very interesting! I've had to grade up some parts of the pattern to get it to fit me... how weird is that? Basically I had the opposite experience, the shoulders being too small, the bands feeling too tight...
    Knit fabrics are so diverse to work with so that could be a factor....
    Anyway it looks awesome! :)

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    1. It could definitely be the fabric, or just us having different fit issues or preferences? I'm starting to wonder if it's possible I have narrow shoulders. This is actually the first item I've ever sewn with sleeves, so I haven't had to spend much time thinking about my shoulders before! But I do remember having to take out a lot of width in the back of the Sorbetto pattern as well? It didn't have sleeves though so I didn't worry about it much. Hmm, time will tell as I sew up more sleeved patterns I suppose!

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    2. PS - I LOVE your stripey version. LOVE. I want to try the scoopneck version next. Not sure I'm brave enough for stripe-matching just yet though!

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  5. It is a fantastic pattern, isn't it? I think the casual vs formal of the shirt is a mix of the specific look of your fabric and how you dress it. It looks to me that it would look dressed up with black pants, a lovely necklace and heels but equally awesome and comfy with jeans. I'm looking forward to wearing my 3/4 sleeve versions more frequently as the temperatures drop.

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    1. Yes, I totally agree. And isn't the cowl neck brilliant? I LOVE a cowl neck, but this is the first one I've ever owned that doesn't reveal waaaaay too much if you bend forward. Brilliant.

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    2. Yep, absolute cowl love! Cowls look great but the fear of bending over makes so many shirts nearly unwearable. I actually made nothing but the cowl Renfrew. I really should branch out and make the scoop neck. I find the cowl is less t-shirt like and thus more work appropriate.

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  6. I'm a bit slow too but I really enjoy the process so I don't like rushing, it's quite relaxing that way :) I used to stress out seeing other bloggers posting a new item every day to two but now I just go at my pace.

    I love the colour of your Renfrew, it looks great on you.

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    1. Glad to have company! Sometimes I think I should have called this blog Sew Slow, haha. (Now that I've typed that I wonder if someone else already has that blog name?)

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  7. I love this on you and the colour is amazing, fantastic work!

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  8. We must be on the same page! I picked up this pattern on a whim last week & bought a great knit ... I'm hoping to start it this afternoon. I love how yours turned out & I'm glad to hear you'll make it again regardless of the changes you want to make to the fit :) have you seen Tasia's Minoru Jacket? Would you be interested in making it?

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    1. I am having major thoughts about sewing wearable, practical things. I'm also loving the pledge you made on your blog! I won't sign up because I'm in the opposite camp (not enough clothes/shoes!) but I'm with you on the sentiment of wanting to make things instead of buy them!

      I LOVE the Minoru pattern and would very much like to make it, although I'll admit to being very intimidated by it. Which probably just means I should try it. Items like that are really the things I should be sewing, because I can NEVER find any that fit properly in stores! I could definitely be convinced to give it a go if you were interested in a mini-sew-along :)

      I think my next Sewaholic pattern is going to be the Thurlow trousers... I really need work pants and haven't been able to find any that fit right. Plus I'm in love with Lladybird's jeans version!

      http://lladybird.wordpress.com/2012/09/24/completed-thurlow-jeans/

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